Sun, Surf and Struggles
The image of the bronzed surfer taking on the swell under summer skies is a mainstay of Australian culture. But is it all sun, sand, surf and good times?
In our new study of nearly 800 surfers from NSW, Australia, published in the Journal of Outdoor Tourism and Recreation, the UNSW Beach Safety Research Group found the mental and physical health benefits are only one part of the story, with downsides frequently glossed over.
The positive aspects of surfing are well-recognised, from relieving everyday stress to finding a community with other like-minded people. Respondents described surfing as a purpose, an identity, and providing meaning to life.
“Surfing is great for my mental health, a great escape to be one with the ocean, it is a fun way to exercise, socialise, and a challenge which always keeps you coming back for more,” one respondent said.
But the idyllic setting didn’t always translate into good behaviour from other surfers, with issues including aggression, localism, and sexism.
Female surfers bore the brunt of the aggression and reported being groped and told to ‘go home’ by other male surfers.
Some of the angst between surfers arose from different levels of experience, and older surfers losing patience with people learning, still unsure of the ‘unwritten rules’ of the surf.
One older surfer reported frustration that there were: “Crowds of people who have no experience and are part of the "Generation Expectation" new crew who think they are entitled to paddle straight out into the line ups of premium waves without earning their place through time and experience in the ocean.”
That negative emotion translated in some instances into verbal aggression which caused distress to surfers who were learning the ropes. “…another surfer proceeded to verbally abuse me. I got out of the water and didn’t surf on my own again for quite some time. It really impacted my confidence and made me feel like some surfing environments were particularly hostile and unaccommodating.”
While surfers are known for their bravery in emergencies, particularly rescuing other beachgoers, the toll of that responsibility weighed heavily on some respondents. “I was certainly traumatised from that day and will never forget it or the boy we tried to save. The traumatic experience really made me realise … the potential risks which I have tried to learn more about.”
These tensions are not surprising in many ways; whenever people come together there are positives and negatives, celebrations and arguments. What was clear from the people who responded was that if you were starting out, or just getting serious about surfing, you are more likely to cop aggression than the surfers who have been around a lot longer.
Uncontrollable aspects of the environment, including overwhelming and poor conditions, shark bite, and pollution were other negative aspects which also affected respondent’s sense of wellbeing.
“Blue identity” is largely positive, with connection to nature and the meditative qualities of surfing often praised. But it is important to remember that isn’t everyone’s experience and we need to do more to welcome new people into the surfing community. In doing a deep dive into the experiences of the surfers, we hope that some of the negative aspects can be recognised and addressed, so that the surf is a place of restoration, and not confrontation, for more people in our community.